so, went to adjust the valves on an 88 325i and much to my chagrin discovered that the exhaust side #1 cylinder head bolt head has snapped off. Proceded with the valve adjustment, it went OK, better than it was (the valves). Question is, has anyone succesfully easy-outed just one snapped bolt and replaced or do I have to take the entire head off to replace? So far no other damage or coolant issues; these are the original hex-head bolts and the car has 165K miles on the engine. I did remove the snapped off head and washer of course. Thanks for any insight...I am not sure what to do with the car now...may be more effort/expense than it's worth...thanks
e30 head bolts
- Thread starter cliff
- Start date
To my understanding the actual face on the bottom of the hex head bolt and associated washer is what tightens the bolt down.
The bolt should be more or less flopping around like a cock in a sock (unless when they last had the head off used lock-tight)
Is there any "snag" on the top of the snapped bolt stud that you could possibly get long nose pliers on to turn it? Otherwise drilling and using a revers thread easyout is the only other option to actually removing the head.
Let me guess... Theres a rocker in the way or something!
The bolt should be more or less flopping around like a cock in a sock (unless when they last had the head off used lock-tight)
Is there any "snag" on the top of the snapped bolt stud that you could possibly get long nose pliers on to turn it? Otherwise drilling and using a revers thread easyout is the only other option to actually removing the head.
Let me guess... Theres a rocker in the way or something!
You could try drilling the whole lenght of the hold and retaping it, but that's going to be a tap.
Damn, this is a tough call. You could do a butcher job on it, but it'll aways be in the back of your mind when you're on that long drive. You don't want to ruin the block either, so maybe just bite the bullet.
Damn, this is a tough call. You could do a butcher job on it, but it'll aways be in the back of your mind when you're on that long drive. You don't want to ruin the block either, so maybe just bite the bullet.
Broken head bolt.
Cliff - I believe that the bolt should have broken somewhere above the threads in the block, but there maybe a counter bore above the end of the threads which may mean that the actual end of the bolt is below the surface of the block. You might be able see the broken end of the bolt if the hole is not to deep. if you think that the end of the bolt is above the surface of the block you might be able to slide a masonry drill down in the hole and whack it good to make an indentation in the top of the bolt, so that you can unscrew it. If that doesn't work then you will have to drill it. That is going to require you keep the drill centered in the hole. Maybe you could make a drill bushing out of a piece of 1/8 brass pipe. If it fits snugly in the hole you could run the correct drill for the "easy out" down the center of the 1/8 pipe, which would keep it centered. once you jave drilled the bolt then you xan insert the "easy out" and unscrew the broken end of the bolt. i didn't actually look under my hood to see exactly what you're dealing with, so this is a big Wild Assed Guess (WAG), but it or a variation might work. Good Luck!
Cliff - I believe that the bolt should have broken somewhere above the threads in the block, but there maybe a counter bore above the end of the threads which may mean that the actual end of the bolt is below the surface of the block. You might be able see the broken end of the bolt if the hole is not to deep. if you think that the end of the bolt is above the surface of the block you might be able to slide a masonry drill down in the hole and whack it good to make an indentation in the top of the bolt, so that you can unscrew it. If that doesn't work then you will have to drill it. That is going to require you keep the drill centered in the hole. Maybe you could make a drill bushing out of a piece of 1/8 brass pipe. If it fits snugly in the hole you could run the correct drill for the "easy out" down the center of the 1/8 pipe, which would keep it centered. once you jave drilled the bolt then you xan insert the "easy out" and unscrew the broken end of the bolt. i didn't actually look under my hood to see exactly what you're dealing with, so this is a big Wild Assed Guess (WAG), but it or a variation might work. Good Luck!
thanks for the help gang...turns out the evil head bolt was easily removed by hand, I never would have believed it myself. Found a couple used ones and replaced the broken one (saving the other as a spare) and have happy results...have checked it out a couple times since..good stuff..funny what adjusting your valves can point out...plus the valves really did need adjustment...engine purrs like a kitten again.....thanks again for the help